In a recent report from the business club on September 3rd, it was revealed that fines for non-compliance are significantly lower than the cost of quality inspection. As many garment companies focus on building their brand’s image and market presence, one must wonder: are they overlooking the real concerns of consumers behind these strategic plans?
China is a major player in textile production, yet only 45% of companies submit their clothing to domestic commodity or fiber inspection systems annually. Additionally, just 5% of private commercial or third-party testing accounts for around 5% of total inspections. This means that less than 50% of products in the domestic textile market undergo proper quality checks, with numerous items entering the market without any official verification.
Take Tianjin as an example—only 10% of garment companies send their products to the National Quality Inspection Center for evaluation. This implies that 90% of manufacturers skip the process entirely. Many rely solely on verbal assurances of quality, without any written proof. These garments are then distributed across the country, often without any real safety guarantees.
Why do so many garment manufacturers avoid mandatory quality inspections? Tang Xiangtao, Deputy Director of the National Garment Quality Supervision and Inspection Center (Tianjin) and Vice President of the Tianjin Textile and Apparel Research Institute, provided insight. He explained that sending every batch of garments to a national lab could cost between 400,000 to 500,000 yuan annually. While this may be manageable for large firms, it's a heavy burden for small factories. To cut costs, some choose to bypass inspections altogether, hoping luck will keep them safe.
If a product passes without inspection, they save money for the year. But if a problem arises and the quality inspection department finds unsafe conditions, the fine is only 5,000 to 10,000 yuan—far less than the cost of testing. It's a calculated risk, but one that puts consumers at risk.
Well-known brands tend to prioritize quality testing, understanding that maintaining a strong reputation is crucial. However, smaller businesses often neglect brand protection, focusing more on short-term profits.
The quality monitoring system includes self-inspection, national sampling, and commercial sampling. Some large retailers require third-party reports, but many independent traders don't enforce such requirements. A new clothing brand owner in Beijing shared that their basic quality control is internal, with limited testing due to high costs. For startups, these fees are seen as astronomical.
Testing agencies fall into three categories: state-owned, private, and foreign-invested. State labs have transparent pricing, while private ones offer competitive rates. Foreign labs charge more due to international certifications, which can sound more "global" but come at a higher price.
In Tianjin, testing a cashmere fabric can cost between 400-700 yuan, depending on color. A Japanese lab, however, charges 1,330 yuan with no discounts, citing global recognition as justification. Such high costs deter many SMEs, especially in a highly competitive market where price is a key factor.
To reduce expenses, many companies set up in-house quality departments. However, these tests are usually limited and not as reliable as those conducted by national labs. The results are self-certified, leading to potential inaccuracies.
Third-party labs, like national inspection centers, provide impartial and legally valid reports. Yet, many companies skip this step, opting for internal checks. This lack of oversight contributes to ongoing quality and safety issues, even among well-known brands.
Clothing inspections typically involve two stages: fabric testing and finished garment submission. External quality, like stitching, is visible to consumers, but fabric composition and color fastness are harder to assess. If fabric doesn’t meet standards, it’s often replaced, adding to production costs and further pressuring SMEs.
Fast fashion brands, known for rapid style changes and frequent new releases, face unique challenges. With small batches and quick turnarounds, testing delays can be costly. Many skip inspections to stay competitive, increasing the risk of quality issues.
This pattern explains why even global brands sometimes face quality scandals. As Tang Xiangtao noted, the cost of inspection and potential delays often outweigh the fines for non-compliance. In a fast-paced industry, the temptation to cut corners remains strong.
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